Friday, July 30, 2010

Arts and Culture in the hay










After Cinque Terre, it was off to Tuscany. I stayed at a farm that was below Cortona, on the gentle slopes at the foot of the hill. This place had olives and a small vineyard, so this time of year there was less to do on the agricultural side. The place was run by Dino, a 50 something year old ex doctor who was a farmer, and artist, organizer, and cook among many other talents. It functioned as a informal arts center and would host festas, sculpture exhibits in the olive grove, and bands or dancers to come perform. The old farm house had many rooms, two kitchens, a small stage and practice room, and a room with about 10 bunks beds. These were used by musicians and dancers who would stop by and stay on their way to performances or just to visit Dino. I stayed in a little room detached from the house with a big bunk bed and used a composting toilet and a solar panel heated shower. Also living at the house was Alessia, an actress and dancer, and Fabio, a dancer. They were both in their late twenties and working more or less freelance.
Dino was very interested in creating almost no waste, and reusing everything possible....organic waste, paper, plastic, metal, everything was separated or saved for later use (often in sculpture!).
From the farm, it was possible to walk through the countryside to Cortona in about 45 minutes where I went to visit the UGA Cortona campus and meet up with some friends who were there for the summer. Cortona is a very beautiful Tuscan hill town, swarming with American college students, English tourists, but also the local Italians. The views in this part of the country are vast and beautiful.
On the first night I arrived, I watched Dino and other actors perform in competition of short one act plays, strange modern theater stuff, but very strong too, even though I couldn't yet understand all the Italian. A few days later, a group of french improv dancers performed for us in the fields and orchards of the farm. This too was very Dada art like, strange beautiful but full of humor. At another point I accompanied a Milanese couple who stayed with us to Perugia where they performed on the streets. They played blues folk and made me nostalgic for muggy summer nights on a porch. The list of art events that occurred go on, but are too many to describe here!
Pictures above include pictures from the farm, from different festas, the cat, Dino, from my visit to florence, the cortona countryside, and a local monastery Le Celle.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Short Vacation










After the Agritourism I set off to Cinque Terre to meet up with Belen and Carlos. We rented a place in La Spezia which is a nearby city with a naval base.
Cinque Terre consists of 5 small towns situated on rocky cliffs with mediterranean plants and the blue sea. There are trails connecting all 5 but you can also go by train. As in most places in Liguria, traveling by car takes longer because the roads are so convoluted to get around all the mountains, so trains are really fast and direct.
It is a very touristy place, but with the natural beauty, its evident why.
We spent some time on the less crowded rocky beaches, and took slow strolls through the towns.

At this point, its sounds like my trip here has been all fun and sun and gelato. In reality, traveling and being on farms has its downside, like everything.
things like:
-being fined 5 euro for not validating a ticket (twice)
-expensive tourist prices
-long tourist lines
-getting around the train station with my huge backpack to catch a train
-losing the bus ticket
-late trains
-touring hours by myself (gets old after a while, gelato by yourself just isn't the same)
-no air conditioning on train
-waiting for host family to pick me up without knowing what they look like
-talking to creepy men because I thought they might be my host (twice)
-Being stuck at a random station at night because the train conductors were on strike
-Missing the last bus back, having to walk and hitch a ride
-walking on the side of the road because no one picks up hitch hikers
-Ants, wasps, mosquitoes, nettles, poison ivy, splinters, cuts, bruises, and blisters.

These stories all end well though, a few moments of stress or discomfort, but I always trust that its will work out, its just a matter of inconvenience. I did finally get a family who felt bad for me to give me a ride, after which I rode my bike and then walked the last bit back to the farm in the moonlight.